Raised embroidery gives an image, logo or pattern a three-dimensional surface. It can be developed with different stitch structures, yarns and base materials. The choice affects how high the stitches stand, how soft they feel and how the finished textile behaves.

Building a soft 3D effect

Some raised embroidery uses a foam-like support beneath the stitches. It can produce strong volume, but it may also make the decoration firmer. The Marini Ricami 1986 samples shown here explore interlaced threads and other stitch structures for a softer tactile effect. The original article also described temporary supports used during production; any removal process and its effect on the base fabric or leather must be checked on a sample.

These samples include geometric patterns on leather, a grass-like texture, a flower on light tulle and interwoven yarn. The finished feel depends on yarn, stitch density, backing and substrate rather than on a single universal method.

Raised embroidery on ribbons and other materials

A raised effect can also add texture to embroidered bands and ribbons. See our embroidered ribbon examples. The original sample collection described work on cotton, satin, silk, genuine leather, ribbons, imitation leather, organza, lace and wool. Each material should be tested for dimensional stability, stitch appearance and care requirements.

Yarn choices

Yarns discussed in the original article include polyester, viscose, wool, cotton, metallic-effect yarns, decorative yarns, silk and recycled fibres. A material label alone does not establish its suitability for a raised stitch or its environmental properties. For more detail on the latter, read our guide to organic and recycled embroidery yarns.

Raised embroidery can evoke the character of hand-worked stitches in a repeatable industrial process. The archive also includes combinations with crystals and studs. To view samples or discuss a particular design and fabric, contact Marini Ricami 1986.