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Matelassé Embroidery: Quilted and Padded Effects

  • Posted by Flavio Marini

What is matelassé embroidery?

Matelassé refers here to stitched quilting that gives a textile or leather surface a softly padded, raised effect. An embroidery machine can create the pattern on a suitable material, sometimes with a padding layer. The design may use familiar diamonds or a custom geometry. The exact construction depends on the base, padding and finished product.

Padded diamond matelassé quilting on brown leather
Padded diamond quilting on brown leather for leather goods.
Embroidery machine stitching a matelassé quilting pattern
Embroidery machine stitching a quilted matelassé motif.
Padded diamond matelassé quilting on white leather
Padded diamond quilting on white leather for leather goods.

Applications

The original sample collection shows matelassé effects on bags, shoes and leather panels. Quilted decoration can also be considered for dresses, skirts, jackets, fashion accessories and other products. A proposed use, especially on protective or technical garments, needs product-specific testing rather than relying on the appearance of the quilting alone.

Matelassé quilted leather footwear sample
Quilted matelassé effect on genuine leather footwear.
Leather handbag with padded matelassé quilting
Leather handbag with a padded matelassé pattern.
Padded leather quilting with decorative crystals
Quilted padded leather with applied decorative crystals.

  • Handbags and other leather goods;
  • fashion accessories and garment panels;
  • dresses, skirts, coats and jackets;
  • shoes and boots.

Patterns and variants

Diamond quilting is one of the most recognisable matelassé patterns, but stitch spacing, motif scale, padding and thread can produce many different surfaces. The archive includes fine and pronounced diamond patterns for leather goods.

Padded matelassé embroidery on a bag panel
Bag panel with a padded matelassé embroidered pattern.
Matelassé quilted leather footwear sample
Quilted matelassé effect on genuine leather footwear.
Genuine leather handbag with padded matelassé quilting
Genuine leather handbag with padded quilting.

Base materials

The original article listed genuine or imitation leather, satin, cotton, natural fibres, polyester, other synthetic fibres and denim. Each substrate should be sampled for stitch hold, flexibility and surface finish.

Techniques that can be combined

Matelassé can be paired with crystals or studs, sequins, digital printing, corded or taping embroidery, hot stamping, thread embroidery, looped or chain stitches, cross stitch, carpet stitch and soft raised embroidery. The combination must suit the base and intended care conditions.

Explore matelassé samples

Marini Ricami 1986’s sample archive includes quilted panels, footwear details and bags. To discuss padding, pattern and material for a new design, contact our team.

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