Jacquard: patterned weaving and its history

Jacquard describes a way of weaving a design into a fabric or band by controlling which yarns appear at the surface. Joseph-Marie Jacquard developed a loom mechanism in the early nineteenth century that used punched cards to control complex repeated patterns. The Science and Industry Museum explains the punched-card system. The Italian original includes a disputed anecdote about an earlier Italian inventor; this article does not present that account as established history.

Jacquard-style embroidered bands and panels

Marini Ricami 1986 uses embroidery to create decorative bands and panels with an effect reminiscent of jacquard weaving. In a woven jacquard, the motif is part of the weave. In a fully embroidered design, stitches create the pattern on a base material or build up a dense surface. The two methods can have a similar visual language but differ in structure and production.

Embroidery can add contrasting borders, raised lettering, dimensional motifs and combinations of yarns. The feasible colour count, density and detail depend on the design and equipment. The original article describes examples with up to 15 embroidery-thread colours in addition to the base band; that specification is assessed during sampling for a current order.

See our guide to embroidered bands and straps for related applications.

Applications and formats

Patterned bands can be used for clothing trims, belts, small leather goods, footwear and handbags. Designs may be modular or run continuously along a band. A made-to-measure component can be cut and finished for a particular product. The appropriate cutting and edge treatment depend on the chosen material and construction.

Material choices

• Polyester and polycotton.
• Cotton and viscose.
• Nylon and metallic-effect yarns such as lurex.
• Recycled-PET polyester or organic cotton where the specified material and documentation are available.

Combining yarns can create variations in shine, texture and colour. Recycled or organic content and any GRS or GOTS claim must be checked for the exact material and supply chain. Read our guide to material options for fashion embroidery for the distinctions among these labels.

To discuss a patterned band, textile panel or sample, contact Marini Ricami 1986.