Purl embroidery, known in Italian as canottiglia or canutiglia, is associated with raised surfaces and metallic shine. Traditional goldwork has appeared on ceremonial clothing, insignia and fashion for centuries. At Marini Ricami 1986 we explore machine-produced effects inspired by this visual tradition.

The history behind purl and goldwork

Metal-thread embroidery has a long history. The Victoria and Albert Museum describes goldwork as at least 2,000 years old. In medieval England, richly worked silk and metal-thread embroideries became known as Opus Anglicanum. The museum also documents small coiled metal threads called purl in later examples of English goldwork.

Over time, raised metallic embroidery was used in ceremonial and military contexts as well as decorative dress, including crests, insignia and formal uniforms.

From ceremonial embroidery to fashion

Traditional examples include military emblems, decorative braids on uniforms, institutional banners and sashes made with metal threads and silk. Goldwork-inspired details also appear in couture and outerwear. The technique offers a way to add light, relief and a sense of occasion to a contemporary design.

What gives purl embroidery its character?

• Raised texture: coiled metallic materials and yarns can create a dimensional surface.
• Hand craftsmanship: traditional goldwork takes skill and time; some examples in the gallery below are hand-made.
• Industrial interpretation: embroidery machines can reproduce selected raised and metallic effects with repeatable placement, subject to the chosen material and design.

Why consider industrial purl-style embroidery?

• Repeatable detail: machine settings help reproduce the approved sample across a run.
• Production planning: quantity, cost and delivery can be assessed for the specific design.
• Versatility: the effect can be tested on suitable fabrics, garments and embroidered patches.
• Customisation: motifs, colours and placement can be tailored to a brand.
• Material combinations: metallic-look yarns, cord and chain embroidery can create different surface effects.

Related techniques and materials

Marini Ricami 1986 also develops other embroidery effects and textile details:

• Custom embroidery for garments and accessories, according to the suitability of the base material
• Raised embroidery and carpet stitch effects
• Perforation and stitching for leather details (article in Italian)
• Material options ranging from raffia-effect yarns and metallic materials to recycled-content sequins and carbon fibre, to be selected and documented for each project

Ask us for current documentation if energy sourcing is relevant to your project.

Purl-style embroidery for your next collection

From eveningwear and high-fashion accessories to more casual pieces, raised metallic embroidery can add a distinctive detail. Sampling helps determine the right construction and finish for your product.

Discuss your project

To ask about purl-style embroidery, cord and metallic-look yarns, use our English contact form.