Hair-on-hide labels are decorative labels, often placed on the back waistband of jeans and trousers. The Italian term cavallino commonly refers to hair-on calf or bovine hide with the hair trimmed, despite its literal association with horses. The original collection shows labels with different hair lengths, colours and decorative treatments. Specifications and material sourcing for a new project need to be confirmed at the time of sampling.

Does “cavallino” mean horsehide?

No: in the examples described here, cavallino generally means hair-on bovine hide. Genuine horsehide is a separate material. The original article also described horsehide as a possible alternative for certain dark colours, with a different sheen and more natural variation in the hair. Availability and suitability should be checked for each project.

Genuine horsehide shown as a material comparison with hair-on bovine hide.

Possible decorative processes include hot stamping, foil printing, screen printing, embossing, laser marking and the application of studs or crystals. The appropriate process depends on the hide, design and expected use. Claims about origin, chemical compliance or nickel content require current documentation for the specific material and finish.

Examples of hair-on-hide waistband labels

Hair-on-hide can make a waistband label a distinctive part of a garment’s identity. The historical examples below include a Jacob Cohën label pictured in the original Italian article and sample treatments with laser marking, embroidery and decorative applications. A pictured brand example does not imply that Marini Ricami produced that brand’s label.

Jacob Cohën hair-on-hide waistband labels, reproduced as an editorial design example.

Colours and printed patterns

The original sample collection includes black, white, beige, brown, grey, green, red and blue labels. Animal-inspired printed patterns include zebra, leopard, jaguar, tiger and giraffe effects. These names describe prints, not the animal source of the hide. Colours and patterns available today should be confirmed during sampling.

Examples of printed patterns on hair-on-hide labels.

Discuss a label sample

Marini Ricami 1986’s sample archive includes hair-on-hide, leather and imitation-leather waistband labels in different shapes and finishes. To ask about an example or discuss a new design, contact our team. We can review material choice, decoration and requirements for the intended garment.