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Cornely Embroidery: From Historic Chain Stitch to Modern Techniques

  • Posted by Flavio Marini

Cornely embroidery differs from ordinary thread embroidery by guiding cords, ribbons, thick yarns or other continuous trims onto a base. Chain stitch and related stitch structures can follow curves and outlines, giving the decoration a hand-worked character.

From Bonnaz to Cornely

Historic Cornely-style embroidery machine

Historic Cornely-style embroidery machine pictured in the original article. The exact model and date of this photograph have not been independently confirmed.

The Powerhouse Collection traces the first successful Bonnaz machine to the French engineer Antoine Bonnaz in 1865. It produced chain-stitch embroidery. Ercole Cornely developed the machine further in Paris for chain and moss stitches, and the equipment later became known by his name. These compact single-needle machines were used in small workrooms as well as larger production settings.

The museum’s machine is associated with Nina Read’s embroidery business in Sydney and was used to attach braids or raised trim to textiles. This history shows how a mechanically guided stitch could produce intricate decorative lines. The museum record supports the historical account; it does not identify the precise machine shown in the photograph above.

Modern Cornely-style work

Embroidered textile with sequins and glass bugle beads
Decorative embroidery sample combining sequins and glass bugle beads.
Cornely embroidery sample with diamond-cut ball chain and Lurex
Cornely-style embroidery with diamond-cut ball chain and metallic yarn.

Modern multihead embroidery equipment can reproduce corded and ribbon effects and combine them with beads, sequins or other stitches. The original Italian article described multicolour combinations and faster repeat production compared with semi-manual methods. Colour count, speed and price depend on the design and machine configuration, so they should be confirmed for each order.

Materials and trims

The sample collection mentions thick or woolly yarns, narrow ribbons, braids, threaded sequins, threaded pearls, glass bugle beads, leather or fabric strips, simple chains, diamond-cut chains and small ball chains. These elements can create flat lines, raised curves or mixed-material details. Their attachment and care requirements vary with weight, base fabric and intended use.

Cornely-style embroidery made with knitted ribbon and rounded details
Knitted ribbon creates rounded details in a Cornely-style sample.
Open industrial Cornely-style embroidery using cashmere and cotton
Open Cornely-style embroidery sample using cashmere and cotton yarns.

To view Cornely-style samples or discuss a cord, yarn or ribbon for a new design, contact Marini Ricami 1986.

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